Classic Mustang, Timing on a 70 w/302

Finally getting the motor to a point of thinking about starting it. Just noticed there is no way to see the timming marks on the harmonic ballencer??????? My 69 you look on the left(drivers) side. On the 70 the water pump lower radiator connection is in the way.

Here is a link to a pic http://www.flickr.com/photos/thestarfinder/4950127410/

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Try it on a Cleveland sometime......the timing mark requires a contortionist to access...

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an early 289 had the water pump inlet on the passenger side and the timing marks on the driver side my 67, or so, the water pump inlet was changed to the driver side and the timing marks on the passenger side. Sound like you have the wrong harmonic balancer for your engine (water pump).
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... or just get a timing tape and stick it on the balancer offset 90 degrees or
so... where you can see it at TDC

Classic Mustang - Hi-performance coils in stock application

Anybody have pros/cons about using a high-performance coil in an otherwise
stock application (e.g., points, that sort of thing)?

---

Dan O'Reilly
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO

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It will provide a more powerful spark at the plugs with no detrimental effects to any other components. It does not change the voltage going to the points as that is determined by the resistor wire or ballast resistor. I believe the only difference is a hot coil has more windings which produces a hotter spark to the plugs. It's an inexpensive upgrade, easily installed, with benefits to both performance and fuel mileage.

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i have a 1972 with a 302 keeps back firing on left side and some times out carb i did tune up tried a new dist and it over heats alot fast also has no power at all help please

marc

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This sounds like your distributor is installed incorrectly, perhaps off a tooth.

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would this cause it to over heat too???

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Also check your timing chain ... might be old, strecthed and have jumped a tooth or two from the backfires.

Joe

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Check the firing order

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Yes, it can. Bad timing causes all sorts of problems - exactly the ones you're describing. Put the #1 cylinder at TDC per the timing mark on the engine, then pop the top off the distributor. I'll bet you'll see the rotor pointing off to one side of where it should be.

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Check your firing order you could easily have some wires on wrong plugs.

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Classic Mustang - I just won Ford's 2010 Mustang contest.

I just got a phone call letting me know that I just won Ford's 2010 Mustang contest. I thank all of you for the info I've learned from our group. I'll have pics of the car once I get. Once a Mustang man, always a Mustang man!!!

------------------------------------

congratulations! at least some of us can be lucky!

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Congratulations!

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If they ask for any money up front so you can "claim your prize", be careful!

Greg S.
65 2+2 GT, K code

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Holy Cow!!!

Congradulations

Mitch
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I agree with Greg, too many scammers out there. It's great that you won but you'll have to pay taxes on the car which could add up to be in the thousands. I'm not sure if it falls under luxury tax or capital gains but it will run anywhere from 15 to 25+ percent.

Congrats!!

Tony Sorrentino
Tony@SVTCobraClub.com
SVT Cobra Mustang Club
www.SVTCobraClub.com
SCMC Hotline: 803.371.0725
SVT - The passion never dies!
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The contest is legit and the people that do Pimp My Ride are doing the customizing. As part of the prize I decided to get a tattoo of a skeleton mustang on my arm and chest. Theyre bringing Adam Forman from Kat Von D's High Voltage shop thats the tattoo shop on TLC. Best of all is I only have to pay taxes on the car and its off the dealers invoice price not MRSP.
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If you really won a car you shouldn't have to pay the sales tax! Sounds
fishy to me. Don't pay it until you have the car in your possession. And
remember, if you do win a major prize such as this, you have to report it
as INCOME to the IRS. I'd be careful. JK
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Sure!!!!!! I guess I'll believe it when I see it on tv and the internet ...... Some people......

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

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You always pay sales tax on winnings.

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Not if you are in a state without sales tax "oregon" and by the way winning a car done by westcoast customs and getting a tattoo by a guy from kat Vond's shop will have to be shown on both of the reality shows so I'll only believe when I see it on tv, I still haven't heard anything on the internet, so I hardly doubt - just don't understand why someone would waste there time lying cause this group is for car people sharing their love for mustangs

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

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I don't know about other states, but in Iowa you don't pay "sales
tax". You pay a tax when the vehicle is registered even if it is
purchased out of state or from an individual. The rate just happens
to be the same as the sales tax rate.

Greg S.
65 2+2 GT, K code

At 08:27 AM 7/17/2009, you wrote:
>You always pay sales tax on winnings.

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I've won a few smaller prizes and never paid a sales tax. The sales tax is
commonly included as part of the prize. (unless its a scam) But you have to
declare the big prizes as income on your taxes. (Assuming you live in the
US) Just like if you win big at a casino they either deduct it right away
or make you sign a form for the IRS.

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.... now we're quibbling over semantics? Sales tax, use tax.... it's still a tax.

Remember when Oprah gave everyone in her studio audience a
new car??? Everybody was so thrilled until they found out they
had to pay the "<whatever>tax" on the car..... not to mention
income tax the following year ...

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State without sales tax...there is a heaven!<G> Okay, you will probably paying federal tax on it though.

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OK, I guess I should have said Income tax. In NJ, you would also pay sales tax when you titled the vehicle. I have never been fortunate to live somewhere there wasn't a sales tax. Phil

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me neither .... growing up we called the DMV fee a "sales" tax when it's really a
"use" tax .... if a car gets sold 10 times, they collect the tax each time no
matter the interval in between sales.... you'd think California's budget
would be so fat!

Walt .... "Living in the World's 8th largest (2005), nearly bankrupt, economy"

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look lets talk stangs not tax if he won it good if its bs owell any one got a grande mustang here i know there not the most pop mustang but i love em i have a 72 an a 73

I agree, let's end this thread, Moderator
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I like the grandes don't have one but also enjoy seein them rollin at the car shows, but I don't have much room to talk cause I also enjoy the mustang II s
Brandon
Early 1965 c code coupe
1975 Mustang II Ghia vulcan 6
1975 BMW 2002

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

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see now there is a mustang that gets abuse II is a cute stang but still a stang an if your a true mustang lover you find the art in all of them even the II

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Wait a second guy.

He won the car not us.

Therefore it is obligation to act put it down

1: It probably has rusted out floor boards

2: It's probably a worn out 6.

3: The automatic probably needs to be rebuilt.

4: They did it with cheap paint.

5: The picture is what it could look like it you spent lots of money on it.

6: Taxes are probably more than it's worth.

Honestly, it's probably not worth picking up.

But if you don't pick it up, can I have it!!!!

Mitch
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Thanks marc, yeah it was my first car and I still have it, I just recently put a fresh engine in with some performance mods so no longer the gas sippin 6 its a 5.0 eatin 6, I have done plenty to this car in the 8 years I have owned it, including all red taillights I fabricated myself I'll post some pics, its not your plain jane II and the light weight and nice handeling makes it a blast to drive.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

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Classic Mustang -351 Cleveland Question

Where did Ford stamp the VIN number on a 351 Cleveland block? Did they stamp all Cleveland blocks?

------------------------------------

From our links...
CLEVELANDS ROCK
Cleveland Identification
http://home.comcast.net/~jelerath/mustang/main/master-fr.html

---------

I don't know if they stamped all 351Cs with the vehicle VIN, they certainly
did some Boss 351s. Sample photo of VIN in the driver's side rear of the
block.... I have not been able to get a good look at mine to see if it's there.
My 71 Boss does have the original motor....

Regards
--------------
Walt Boeninger
1971 Boss 351
1967 Shelby Trans Am
1967 GT500
2002 Mustang GT
2007 Shelby GT
www.boeninger.net
webmaster@norcal-saac.org
webmaster@vintagemustang.org
http://shelbytransam.com

Classic Mustang - When 72 Mach1 is moving you can hear the engine in the radio

Hello everyone, I have a question. When my 72 Mach1 is idleing there is no engine interference in the radio and Cd player but when the car is moving you can hear the engine in the radio. What can cause this and how do you cure it? Do I need to change plugs and wires. What causes this to happen?

Thanks in advance for any and all responses.
Jeff 72 R code

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hRe: Question A real '72 "R" code ??! very cool...... I'd put up with the static and listen to the solid lifters...... ...	Walt Boeninger walt@...	Jul 12, 2009 2:54 am
Re: Question You may need new wires with radio supression or you may be missing a ground wire or have a bad ground somewhere... Tony Sorrentino	Tony S cobrabitn1	Jul 12, 2009 1:47 am
Re: Question Check to see if someone has removed the condensor on the voltage regulator. It is about 3/4 " in diam and 1" long, with one wire that plugs into cable at your regulator..	stan stan48312	Jul 12, 2009 2:46 am

Classic Mustang - Hood scoop

I have heard the dual hood scoops found on Mustangs such as the Mach 1 were called NASA hoods.

While reading a book on Mustangs, the author refers to scoops as a NACA hood.

Which is correct please?

mike
'71 M-code

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Re: Hood scoop From March 3, 1915, until its incorporation into NASA on Oct. 1, 1958, the NACA provided technical advice to the aviation industry in the U.S. and carried out cutting-edge aeronautics research. The NACA was created by President Woodrow Wilson in an effort to organize American aeronautical research and "to supervise and direct the scientific study of the problems of flight, with a view to their practical solution." NASA has continued this tradition to the present day. So either is "correct" ... depends on how old you are!	Walt Boeninger walt@...	Jul 11, 2009 12:22 am
Re: Hood scoop Great information. Thanks Walt. mike	MDG shyohoj9	Jul 11, 2009 12:58 am
Re: Hood scoop ...but Ford originally referred to them as NACA scoops in their literature (at least the sales stuff)....	Dan O'Reilly danoreilly	Jul 11, 2009 1:23 am

Classic Mustang - technical/automotive schools

hello all....

My '70 mustang is at the shop today for a mechanical evaluation. Just to get it road and inspection worthy I know it will need a 100% brake job and some exhaust work. Hopefully not much else.

Anyway, I am considering bringing her to a technical and/or automotive school for the major repairs and re-builds, body work etc. does anyone have any experience going this route and any recommendations for such schools in New England?

Thanks in advance......
steve

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Re: technical/automotive schools Run away, run FAR away.. To many examples of cars and motors toasted from someone learning on it. One of my Scouts did exactly this. Took his Dodge Stealth in for a tune up, oil change, ...... Along the line someone left something off and the motor ingested it. When the school was approached about it, they pointed to the fine print that said the owner assumes all risk and understands that unqualified people are working on their vehicle...... Mahalo!! Jim Ohrt	Jim Ohrt jpohrt	Jul 10, 2009 2:57 am
Re: technical/automotive schools I think it may depend on the school. I attended a tech school for auto repair in the early 1980s. The body shop was located next to us so I had a chance to see what went on in that department. While mistakes are sometimes made due to the nature of learning, I found the teachers had a sharp eye, and the students tried their best to do a good job since they wanted to impress the teachers as well as the other students. I suppose it's a roll of the dice but I saw many engines rebuilt which came out as good as new and some excellent work come from the body shop. That's not to say it was all top quality work, but if you're really strapped for money and need to get a job done which would normally run into the thousands of dollars, I'd say roll the dice. If it comes out well it's the absolute most bang for the buck. There's no guarantees in life but based on my experience I'd say the odds are in your favor, provided it's a quality school and not a "get 'em in, teach 'em, and get 'em out" facility. It should take longer to have the work done, and if your car is promised to you in what seems too short a period of time, I'd say pass it by. See if you can get a hold of people who have had work done there in the past.	Flick01@... flick12003	Jul 10, 2009 3:09 am
Re: technical/automotive schools Thanks to Jim and Flick for the info. Flick, can you tell me what the arrangement was with the owners of the cars at the school you attended? Are you paying for labor, parts only? Are you kept in the loop as work progresses? Thanks in advance......steve	fairtidez	10:31 am
Re: technical/automotive schools I attended the school in 1980 and I don't know what arrangements have changed if any. Back then, a kid could decide what engine he wanted to rebuild and that was the first rebuild on my 1965 289. I heard now they assign you an engine. I recall during brake class myself and another student did a four wheel brake job on a 1970 or 71 Maverick. To the best of my knowledge the customer paid only for the parts. I don't know if they were charged list price or given a discount. As for the body work, I would imagine it was the same procedure. Some other students in school (there was a separate building for other courses) had their cars done in the body shop and I remember seeing them come by and talking with the teacher and the students. It's not likely they would leave you in the dark and not allow you to stay abreast of the progress, especially if they encounter a problem like finding hidden rust or parts availability which could cause a delay. If you have access to the school grounds see if you can talk to a teacher or student and they should be able to give you the specifics set up by the school.	Flick01@... flick12003	10:44 am

Classic Mustang - Eating coils? Ignition Systems

Good "points" (pun intended)

Here's some info

http://www.burtonpower.com/technical_1/ignition_systems.aspx

Ignition Systems

Spark Plugs

How would you like to be shut in a chamber with temperatures of up to 3000°C, splashed with petrol and given a 30,000 volt electric shock 25 times a second, and be subjected to pressures 50 times greater than normal atmosphere? No? - well that’s what your spark plugs are subjected to! So if you want peak performance from your engine, make sure you fit suitable plugs. Three main points to consider are; All modern engines are now fitted with resistor type plugs and you are advised to stick with this type. The high energy bursts from plugs can cause interference to ICE, EFi and engine management systems if resistor plugs are not fitted. Plug heat range - many plug manufacturers produce a competition range which are usually harder or colder than the standard fitment. For mild road tuning it is best to stick with the factory recommended item but colder plugs will be necessary for seriously modified engines. Electrode gap - unless there is a known benefit for doing otherwise, we advise setting the gaps as recommended. Some uprated ignition systems can generate a spark across a wider gap which may improve combustion. However, on high boost turbo engines a large plug gap may result in the spark being blown out and for these engines a reduction in the gap is usually specified e.g. Cosworth types.

Ignition Coils

Ballast and Non-Ballast Ignition Systems Contact breaker (points) type ignition systems, as fitted to most Ford models up to around 1980 (although it lasted up to 1987 for the Capri), can have either a ballast fitted in the wiring loom or not. What is a ballast? Quite simply, it is a resistor that has the purpose of reducing the voltage to the coil. Why do some ignition systems have a ballast fitted where others do not? Originally, all ignition systems did not have a ballast fitted which meant that the ignition system used a 12v coil with a 12v feed from the battery via the ignition switch. Such a system works fine when an engine is running, but problems can occur when starting the engine. The starter motor draws a huge current from the battery leaving less energy to create a spark across the spark plugs. The result is a weaker than normal spark which is not ideal for starting an engine. This problem is worsened by colder temperatures and/or a worn starter motor which will draw even more energy for starting and leave even less energy for sparking. To overcome such a problem, ignition systems were changed to run a lower voltage coil (usually 9v), and these coils could still give the same output as the original 12v coils. In order to run such a coil, the 12v ignition feed runs through a ballast, reducing it to 9v at the coil. To assist starting, a 12v feed (usually from the starter) bypasses the 9v ignition feed, giving the 9v coil a 12v feed. The result is a better than normal spark which is ideal for starting, particularly on cold damp mornings. As soon as the engine has started, the 12v feed is cut and the coil will run on the 9v ignition feed. How do I know which ignition system is fitted? Ballast ignition systems were introduced in around 1970. Virtually all Ford models from this date should have a ballast fitted. To find out for sure, use a multimeter to check the voltage on the positive wire of the coil with the ignition on. Around 9v means you have a ballast, around 12v means you don’t. Which coil should I use with a ballast ignition system? Without modifying your ignition system, you can use any standard ballast coil or we offer performance ballast coils from Bosch (red coil 0221119030) or Intermotor (gold coil DLB110). Using a non-ballasted coil would mean that you are running a 12v coil on a 9v feed, resulting in a weak spark. You can however use such coils provided you remove the ballast resister. Which coil should I use with a non-ballast ignition system? Use any standard non-ballast coil, or we offer performance non-ballast coils from Bosch (blue coil 0221119027) or Intermotor (gold coil DLB105). Do not use a ballast coil. Although you may gain a performance advantage using such coils, failure will be imminent!

Ignition Leads

The sensitive electronic systems on modern cars need protecting from outside interference, so just like the plugs above, the leads must be able to suppress the high voltage bursts flowing through them. Good quality carbon cored 8mm silicone leads are quite adequate for most mild tune applications but the carbon core will degrade and performance will drop off over a period of time (typically 2-3 years). High performance silicone leads (up to 10mm) with a ferromagnetic/glass fibre core will out-perform and outlast their carbon cored cousins.

Distributors

Pre engine management cars rely on mechanical distributors to adjust the ignition timing through the rev range. Most highly modified high revving engines will require a different advance curve to the standard distributor to achieve peak power. The usual requirement is for more ignition advance at low engine speeds and slightly less total advance which would typically occur between 2,500 - 3,000 rpm. DIY alterations to standard distributors can be quite successful but also time consuming - you rarely get it right first time. Also, if it is badly worn it should be replaced, in which case you might as well buy one already modified for you!

Electronic Ignition Systems

Up until the early eighties most European cars still had the now redundant contact points system, with all its inherent problems (burnt contacts, points bounce at high rpm, etc.). Early Electronic conversion systems were either very unreliable, expensive or both. But as technology progressed and performance improved, all major car manufacturers had their engines factory fitted with various contactless ignition systems. Engine efficiency can be greatly improved by fitting an electronic ignition kit to an existing points type distributor. Once fitted these systems are maintenance free and can operate at engine speeds far in excess of the very best contact points system. The two main types of electronic ignition are inductive and constant energy, the latter being the type most commonly used by car manufacturers.

Classic Mustang - Spare tire and Jack

Hello everyone. I have a question-Are there any suppliers out there that sell spare tires and jacks? I am looking for a spare tire and jack for a 1972 Mach 1. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any and all responses.
Jeff

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I don't think anyone makes repro jacks ... MP doesn't list any....

Ebay has some ... for example: http://tinyurl.com/lybr32

Suitable wheel and tire should be easy to come by .... unless you want a
space saver .....
http://www.shelbytransam.com/walt/boss351/gallery/Trunk/index.htm

____________________________

Classic Mustang - Eating coils?

My '71 Mach has eaten a pair of coils over the last week. The one that died first was about a year old, and the second may have been going bad to start with. Both were repro yellow-top coils. I had a more modern, slightly used, Autolite coil sitting around the garage that I've since installed yesterday, and so far it holds the record (2 days with no problems).

Any idea? I seem to remember that those repop yellow-tops can be problematic. I want to use a good-quality coil that can pass for stock (you can't see the top with the ram-air air cleaner mounted on the engine anyway) so just a black body is sufficient. The points and plug wires are less than a year old, all connections are good, tight and clean.

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Classic Mustang - Vote for my car, Cherry Blossoms and Mustang

Please vote so our car can be on a magazine cover:
(and tell your friends)

friends to vote.

1) BIG BLOCK CHEVY

2) Three Mopars

3) Cherry Blossoms and Mustang

4) Racer Bob Steele

5)Rolling Thunder 2009

6)Stunt Rider

7) Yellow Vette

8) Drifting BMW

9) Blonde Model On Bike

10) Models N Throttles

Vote for "Cherry Blossoms and Mustang"

64 1/2 Rangoon red "D Code"

Brian

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Classic Mustang - 1970 door glass for sale and other classic Mustang parts

I've been through some of my classic parts boxes so if anyone is interested here are some 1970 door glasses I have for sale.

https://post.craigslist.org/manage/1254927654/hdw63

1970/1969 Mustang fastback door glass - $350 (Rock Hill, SC)

---

Reply to: sale-h8dew-1254927654@craigslist.org ^{[Errors when replying to ads?]}
Date: 2009-07-05, 8:02PM EDT

These are "clear" 1970 Mustang fastback door glasses. They have some scratches but can still be used. Do they even make these anymore? I also have one 1969 Mustang fastback door glass. These are original Ford glasses so they will fit perfect.

1970 Glasses = $350.00
1969 Glass = $200.00

Prices are firm, call 803.371.0725 interested.

• Location: Rock Hill, SC
• it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

PostingID: 1254927654

I also have other stuff but right now I'm going to go through them a little at a time.

other parts include:

1969 ash tray for no console dash

1969/1970 lower dash panel

1969/1970 rear package tray

1969 dash panel for mach 1

1967 dash panel with clock

1969 turn signals - front valence

1969 original taillights with chrome trim rings (used)

1969/1970 GT 390 heads (C8AE) C8OE are Cobra Jet heads in case you didn't know that.

1969 decklid hinges (pair)

1969 door glass for passenger side (clear)

1969 door glass mounting brackets

1971 AM radio

1969 AM radio

351 W engine for FMX transmission (needs rebuilding - engine is from oil pan to aluminum intake)

1969 FMX transmission (needs rebuilding)

1969/1970 factory braces from the firewall to the strut towers

429 - 4 bbl in take

Other parts:

1994 SVT Cobra GT 40 Heads

1994 SVT Cobra factory headers

1998 SVT Cobra stock wheels with Kuhmo tires on them - $550.00

1999 SVT Cobra wheels (2) with Nitto 555 Super Drag Radials on them - $200.00

These are all original Ford parts with original Ford part numbers on them. I have more but this is all I could go through this weekend. Some of these parts are listed on Craig's list under auto parts/ Charlotte, NC. Pics and prices upon request.

Thanks,

Tony Sorrentino
Tony@SVTCobraClub.com
SVT Cobra Mustang Club
www.SVTCobraClub.com
SCMC Hotline: 803.371.0725
SVT - The passion never dies!

__._,_.___

Classic Mustang - Questions on painting

I am teaching myself how to paint so that one day I can hopefully be able to paint my Mustang. I bought a '67 Ford F-100 junker a few months ago that I will be practicing on, it was cheap so there are no fears of screwing it up.

The question I have involves the sanding of the primer, base coat, and clear coat, more specifically the grit used. I can primer the vehicle and sand then repeat until there are no defects (ripples, dings, ect...) but then I am lost, how fine a grit do you go down to until you are ready to apply your base coat? Once the base coat is applied what grit do you go to before you apply the clear (I have heard the people don't sand the base but make the corrections when they get to the clear)?

Then what's the final grit (or grits leading up to the final grit) that is used on the clear coat to finish? Sorry if the question is a little 'wordy' but it's my first. I am useing a urethane paint if that helps determine the anything.

Thanks

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Re: Questions on painting Do all the sheet metal repairs first. Get it as smooth as you can with hammer and dolly. Then use filler to remove all the minor defects. (filler should never be more than 1/8" thick) Sand and use a primer filler. Block the primer filler to show any small imperfections. Repair with skim coats of filler. Block it and repeat until you are satisfied with the shape and contour blending. Wet sand and wet block to thin it all down so all fill is as thin as possible. Spray primer sealer (no sanding should be required)if you see something you missed before then fix it now and respray with primer sealer. Shoot it with the base coat. Spray a light (see through) color coat and let it "kick" for 10 - 20 minutes. Spray a second light coat of color and let it "kick" for 20 minutes. Spray the final color coat. Let it dry over night. Next morning inspect the paint - looking for thin spots or defects. If you find any grind the area down to metal and fill, sand, fill, block, primer filler, sand and block, primer sealer wet sand, start the paint process. When it is as perfect as you want it then you spray the first clear coat. Follow the first with as many as you need to have it look the way you want. Paul	Paul Stephens pauls1950
Re: Questions on painting In the process of painting my 64.5 today. I final sand the primer with 150 - 220. I have found that the sander has as much to do with the amount of sand scratches as the paper used. If you go too fine, you run the risk of improper adhesion. I would also discuss the final prep with your paint supplier. They will be able to direct you with regards of the final prep steps (cleaning, sanding, tack rag,......) and the products they recommend so as to not have any adverse reactions. As far as base coat, all depends on what you are trying to fix. Any sanding of an iridescent or metallic based paint runs the very real risk of disturbing the flakes in the paint. This will lead to light and dark spots in the finish. Best bet is to get yourself in a position where you do not have to do that at all. Clean is the word of the day. Silicones are death to paint. If you do not have a booth, paint early in the day, before the bugs get moving. And match your reducer to the temperature you are working in. Too fast and the larger panels will have a hard time blending. You also need to work with your supplier on the clear coats. Some clears dry very fast, others allow more time. Big decision when it comes to how soon you plan on compounding (if you need to) the clear after applying. Here the finer the grit the better. I would first concentrate on technique. Anything you can do to reduce or eliminate orange peel, runs and sags, will make your life, and the finish much better. One final thing. HVLP...... Use a LOT less paint than traditional guns, without near as much overspray. Mahalo!! Jim Ohrt	Jim Ohrt jpohrt

Classic Mustang - Mustang Suspension

Hey Hey, got a 66 Mustang and i think i need a new suspesion, any advise?? where can i get one cheap and what kind should i get??

exhaust also, should i go with flowmaster and if so what kind 40's 44's 50's any advise??

THanks all

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Classic Mustang - mechanical help

Really enjoying the site so far, reading the posts and checking out the pics and links. I've already learned quite a bit, though I'll be asking for all sorts of mechanical help as I go along. Carpenter by trade, I have good problem solving skills but my mechanical skills and knowledge leave a bit to be desired. I'm chomping at the bit to get started and have my new baby driveable this summer!

All right, so I put a fresh battery in the '70 convertible that I picked up the other day and it fires right up, though not driveable because of brake issues. After a couple of days of turning the engine over, poof, nothing. Not a whir, click or clatter. She starts right up with a jump and all the electrical also works. Is this a case of a non-functioning alternator not re-charging the battery as it runs? If it needs replacing, what else should be replaced? wiring harness? voltage regulator? Also, looking for links to parts in the NE region if anyone has any to share.

I appreciate the help, bear with me! fair winds and tides.....steve

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Re: mechanical help It could certainly be the alternator, take it into a good shop and have it tested (Pep Boys, Autozone, place like that usually test for free). I suppose it...	Dan O'Reilly danoreilly
Re: mechanical help I think you have something that is running the battery down.... if all you have done is start the car a few times over the last few days, the battery would not...	Walt Boeninger
Re: mechanical help My gut feeling is something is draining the battery when the engine is off. If it was just a case of the alternator not charging, the battery would most likely...	Flick01@... flick12003
Re: mechanical help Hello people , I believe Steve said he had an Alternator on Car with a dead Battery ?? If I remember it , an alternator does not require a Regulator , NOR...	Phillipp Steffon fill3steff
Re: mechanical help Phillipp, All alternators need a regulator. Some are internal but the older ones are external. An alternator needs to be running at a high idle to recharge the...	Paul Stephens pauls1950
Re: mechanical help Thank you all so much for the info and advice! I am on the case with a buddy, a voltage meter and a large measure of patience. I'll keep you posted on the...	fairtidez
Re: mechanical help Hello Paul; Say what you wish The Poster was speaking of a FORD with a Alternator of year that I believe used an INTERNAL Regulator !!!!!!, Phil ...	Phillipp Steffon fill3steff

Classic Mustang - '72 Q Code - chrome air cleaner lid?

I recently bought a '72 Q Code, and it has a chrome air cleaner lid.
Was the chrome lid OEM on these, or should it have a painted lid ?

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Re: '72 Q Code - chrome air cleaner lid?

My '72 Q code is 100% original, and it is chrome. I can send you a picture if you'd like. ... Bruce

Monson

bamons

Classic Mustang - 1966 Coupe - Restore to original??

I have a 66 coupe that I have been debating whether to restore to original or to what I like.

It is a C Code with an automatic. Console, A/C and front disc brakes with manual steering.

Originally Springtime Yellow with a white vinyl top and parchment interior.

I would rather restore the car with a red or blueish gray (or maybe a different color) and a black vinyl top and black interior with a 4 speed with no a/c and power steering.

What would you folks do? Restore to original or to what you like??

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Re: 1966 Coupe - Restore to original?? I had a 67 coupe that was Springtime Yellow w/black vinyl top and I personally liked the color. Just my opinion. PT...	pthomas213@... ptmoving95
Re: 1966 Coupe - Restore to original?? If it were me, considering the year, I'd go with what I want. The '66 is plentiful in all original. Be different! Of course, I would hope you live up...	traci long satin208
Re: 1966 Coupe - Restore to original?? I live in nortwestern wisconsin. Besides, even in the hot and humid days I don't use a/c. I like the heat and humidity. Â ...	Nick & Jen nickphernetton
Re: 1966 Coupe - Restore to original?? Follow your heart and do with it what you want. At the end of the day you are the only one you need to satisfy... Checked out interesting web site today for...	Jim Ohrt jpohrt
Re: 1966 Coupe - Restore to original?? I definitely prefer it over the cold, but the last two weeks we've had heat indexes over 110 degrees! Even my cats are passing out! ...	traci long satin208

Classic Mustang - Pics posted of my mach1

Hello again everyone, I now have pics of my Mach 1 posted. If you are interested just look in " Jeff's Mach 1" album

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Re: Pics posted of my mach1 Very nice .... reminds me of my '72 Mach I from the mid '70s ..... slotted mags and then 15x8 Keystone classics.... sold it in 1980... ...

Walt Boeninger walt@...

Classic Mustang - There’s a new Mustang shop north of Houston!

Aggressive Mustangs of Splendora has now opened their doors for business! Specializing in modern V-6s and all classics ('64 ½ to '73).

Basic services include:
· Restoration (stock or modified)
· Customization
· Project Car Search Assistance
· Modification/Upgrades
· Repairs

Aggressive Mustangs
27765 FM 2090 E
Splendora, TX 77372
T: 281-306-0542
*website coming soon

Tue – Fri 9a – 6p
Sat 9a – 2p

If you have a Mustang, we'll make it Aggressive!

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Classic Mustang - Torque question

Bought a set of upper ball joints and lower control arm assemblies made by Moog. Question is whether to follow the torque specs as defined in my Ford shop manual or use the specs that came with the parts. They are somewhat different but close.

Thanks

mike
'71 M-code Grande

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Re: Torque question I always went by the Ford manual and I rebuilt the front-end of my '71 Mach with Moog. Nothing's fallen off yet, a couple thousand miles later, so I guess it must work ok!	Dan O'Reilly danoreilly
Re: Torque question Sounds right as rain to me. My mechanic (came with the car) does not believe in torque wrenches so I will need to twist his arm on this one. mike	MDG shyohoj9
Re: Torque question I rebuilt my front end last year and went with the specs that came with the parts. I figured it this way, I don't know who the original manufacturer was plus materials have improved since my car was built. If no spec came with a part (such as my lower control arms) I went with the Ford recommendations. The guy who rebuilt my engine changed over to ARP studs for the crank and ARP bolts for the rods. He said the new bolts came with a spec that was higher than what was originally called for. As you said, most of the time they're close enough nothing is going to fall off but I usually go with the specs that came with the part due to improved materials and technology.	Flick01@... flick12003
Re: Torque question No question, as a machinist I would recommend the part manufacturers torque. This spec. would be quoted by their engineering department.	Larry Hildreth alcutter4