The question I have involves the sanding of the primer, base coat, and clear coat, more specifically the grit used. I can primer the vehicle and sand then repeat until there are no defects (ripples, dings, ect...) but then I am lost, how fine a grit do you go down to until you are ready to apply your base coat? Once the base coat is applied what grit do you go to before you apply the clear (I have heard the people don't sand the base but make the corrections when they get to the clear)?
Then what's the final grit (or grits leading up to the final grit) that is used on the clear coat to finish? Sorry if the question is a little 'wordy' but it's my first. I am useing a urethane paint if that helps determine the anything.
Thanks
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Do all the sheet metal repairs first. Get it as smooth as you can with hammer and dolly. Then use filler to remove all the minor defects. (filler should never be more than 1/8" thick) Sand and use a primer filler. Block the primer filler to show any small imperfections. Repair with skim coats of filler. Block it and repeat until you are satisfied with the shape and contour blending. Wet sand and wet block to thin it all down so all fill is as thin as possible. Spray primer sealer (no sanding should be required)if you see something you missed before then fix it now and respray with primer sealer. Shoot it with the base coat. Spray a light (see through) color coat and let it "kick" for 10 - 20 minutes. Spray a second light coat of color and let it "kick" for 20 minutes. Spray the final color coat. Let it dry over night. Next morning inspect the paint - looking for thin spots or defects. If you find any grind the area down to metal and fill, sand, fill, block, primer filler, sand and block, primer sealer wet sand, start the paint process. When it is as perfect as you want it then you spray the first clear coat. Follow the first with as many as you need to have it look the way you want. Paul | Paul Stephens pauls1950 | ||||
| In the process of painting my 64.5 today. I final sand the primer with 150 - 220. I have found that the sander has as much to do with the amount of sand scratches as the paper used. If you go too fine, you run the risk of improper adhesion. I would also discuss the final prep with your paint supplier. They will be able to direct you with regards of the final prep steps (cleaning, sanding, tack rag,......) and the products they recommend so as to not have any adverse reactions. As far as base coat, all depends on what you are trying to fix. Any sanding of an iridescent or metallic based paint runs the very real risk of disturbing the flakes in the paint. This will lead to light and dark spots in the finish. Best bet is to get yourself in a position where you do not have to do that at all. Clean is the word of the day. Silicones are death to paint. If you do not have a booth, paint early in the day, before the bugs get moving. And match your reducer to the temperature you are working in. Too fast and the larger panels will have a hard time blending. You also need to work with your supplier on the clear coats. Some clears dry very fast, others allow more time. Big decision when it comes to how soon you plan on compounding (if you need to) the clear after applying. Here the finer the grit the better. I would first concentrate on technique. Anything you can do to reduce or eliminate orange peel, runs and sags, will make your life, and the finish much better. One final thing. HVLP...... Use a LOT less paint than traditional guns, without near as much overspray. Mahalo!! Jim Ohrt | Jim Ohrt jpohrt | ||||
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