I replaced the sending unit yesterday, and the pressure is actually reading
a bit higher. I also bought some 20W-50 oil to replace the 10W-30 I've
been using. 'Tween the 2, I think I'm in better shape.
However, I did talk to my machine shop today (these guys have been around
for something like 60 years, and they REALLY know engines; I've used them
before on some other engines). Here are the prices I got (not bad, I'm
thinking):
- Boil block - $52
- R/R cam bearings - $34.50
- Redo heads (guides, seals, hardened seats) - $400 for both
- Magnaflux the block - $48
- Decking (includes the intake manifold faces) - $155
- Mic the crank - $10, clean crank - $10, grind crank, $125
- Install wrist pins - $9/each
- Cylinder bore - $20/hole
I kinda doubt I would have to grind the crank, and it's way doubtful I
would have to deck the block, so I think a realistic case I'm looking at is
about $750 when all's said & done. And as I mentioned before, these guys
have been working motors for about forever (I think the youngest guy in the
shop is probably in his 40's).
At 09:15 PM 5/30/2009, Dan O'Reilly wrote:
>I pulled a couple of main caps when I was doing the car and had the engine
>out a couple years ago (maybe 5k miles since then). A bit of wear, but
>didn't look too significant. I did have to do the timing chain (it was way
>out spec for deflection), and I'm not entirely certain of the lineage of
>the oil pump. I'm going to try a new sending unit, then I'm also going to
>switch to a 40W oil (I'm running 10W-30 right now). If the new sending
>unit helps, obviously that's the issue. If the heavier oil works, it has
>to be a bad pump or bad bearings. I guess it would be easy enough to
>replace the oil pump, provided it's easy enough to drop the pan on a '71
>Mach with a Cleveland with it in the car.
>
>I suppose I could change the rod & main bearings with the engine in the
>car. I've done it before in a 289 in a '65 Fairlane. But what I intend to
>do is to get the motor thru this summer (another 1k miles or so), then go
>thru the engine this winter. There's a really excellent machine shop here
>that'll charge me only $200 to do both heads, $50 to boil the block, and
>$8/hole to bore the cylinders (I'm thinking .030 over), plus $50 for things
>like truing the deck if I need it. I don't think I'll need to have the
>crank turned, but I suppose it's possible.
>
>At 06:59 PM 5/30/2009, Flick01@Aol.Com wrote:
> >The pump itself may be worn. Back when old Mustangs were a common sight I
> >used to replace timing chains which had slipped on a regular basis.
> >Whenever I saw a top gear which was almost worn smooth I would tell the
> >owner to replace the oil pump because it was a matter of time before the
> >pressure would become low. Tiny particles of nylon make their way past the
> >pickup screen and cause the gears to wear. As Phils2888 mentioned, it
> >could be bad bearings, I ran into that in my own car last year, but if
> >you're sure the bearings are good then low pressure is very likely a worn
> >pump. Even if you never had a timing gear issue sometimes it just happens.
>
>---
>
>Dan O'Reilly
>1971 Bright Red Mach 1
>2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
>Colorado Springs, CO
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
------
+-------------------------------+----------------------------------------+
| Dan O'Reilly | "There are 10 types of people in this |
| Principal Engineer | world: those who understand binary |
| Process Software | and those who don't." |
| http://www.process.com | |
+-------------------------------+----------------------------------------+
------------------------------------
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