will be in the $500 range (assuming I need pistons), and there's always
another $125 or so for cam/lifters, plus another $100 or so in
miscellaneous stuff you forget about.
At 04:21 PM 6/1/2009, Flick01@Aol.Com wrote:
>Dan,
> Twenty nine years ago when I was in some tech school taking auto repair
> classes the engine teacher said as a rule of thumb it costs about $100
> per cylinder to rebuild an engine. Of course that didn't mean each
> cylinder itself would require $100 worth of work but rather a six
> cylinder would cost $600 to rebuild. If you can get your engine done for
> about the same price almost thirty years later, you're well ahead of the
> game. I just rebuilt my 289 and I paid a lot more than that but I also
> replaced a lot of parts which you're probably going to reuse in your
> engine. I replaced pistons, rods, cam, lifters, pushrods, and heads.
> I'm going to suggest something which might bring the cost up to a
> grand but I think would be money well spent. Switch to ARP bolts on
> everything. I snapped a head bolt on removal and that was all the
> motivation I needed to change every engine bolt over to ARP. I also went
> with a stud kit for the crank. The rods I bought were original standard
> 289 (not hipo) rods but they have the ARP bolts (plus they were balanced)
> and there's no reason why they shouldn't be as good or better than hipo
> rods which have a meatier bottom and larger bolts. I was lucky. Ford
> bottom ends and the bolts they use are excellent and I reused my old head
> and rods bolts more times than I ever would have gotten away with if I
> was working on an old Chevy, but even the Ford bolts eventually get
> tired. (ever see a hot Chevy use original GM rods? Everything on the
> bottom is usually Eagle. In comparison, standard Ford bottom ends are a
> lot stronger and more forgiving) Reusing rod bolts, as well as heat and
> age, take their toll. My rods were just so out of round that when I found
> a guy selling a set of resized, balanced, and ARP equipped rods for $100
> I jumped at the chance. (That comes out to $12.50 a rod!) If you switch
> to the ARP rod bolts you'll probably have to have the rods resized but I
> believe going with the better hardware and resizing is cheap insurance.
> Tearing down an engine isn't something we do very frequently plus it
> looks like prices for everything will start rising soon and very likely
> will be rising a lot. If I could get 44 years and 5 reusings to original
> Ford rod bolts, the ARP units should last forever. So please consider
> changing all your critical engine bolts over to ARP including the stud
> kit if you can fit it in your budget. If money is extremely tight then at
> least consider getting new Ford bolts. The best rebuild in the world
> won't amount to a hill of beans if a piece of hardware lets go. I got
> lucky in how many times I reused my old hardware without any dire
> consequences but even I know when it's time to stop pushing my luck. In
> my view ARP hardware is the cheapest and best insurance you can buy for
> your engine. Please give it some thought.
>
>
>**************
>We found the real ‘Hotel California’ and the ‘Seinfeld’ diner.
>What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com.
>(http://www.whereitsat.com/#/music/all-spots/355/47.796964/-66.374711/2/Youve-Found-Where-Its-At?ncid=emlcntnew00000007)
>
>
>
---
Dan O'Reilly
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO
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