Re: [Classic Mustang] New, and what to look for in a '71-73 convertible

That's good news to hear they just pop out, Dan. I don't think anybody should object to that if they have nothing to hide.

From what I've been reading - the '71-73s were less prone to cowl rust that the earlier cars since the hood covers the openings?

--- In classicmustang@yahoogroups.com, Dan O'Reilly <dano@...> wrote:
>
> To inspect the cowl, you can remove the 2 plastic vent covers the are under
> the hood, just forward of the windshield. They just pop out and pop back
> in. Then you can do something of a visual inspection, or maybe see what
> you can feel out with your fingers. I doubt you would be able to see much
> from under the dash, as the fresh air vents pretty much cover up the areas
> you're interested in.
>
> I don't think you would have to much trouble finding a 351C 2V car. The 4V
> were a lot less common.
>
> At 07:05 AM 5/1/2009, rpxr400 wrote:
> >Dan and Bill,
> >
> >Thanks for the responses. Other than the "common" areas to look at as
> >noted - are there any specific areas to look for on the ragtop cars?
> >
> >What's the best way to inspect the cowl if you can't take parts off the
> >car? From under the dash ?
> >
> >I definitely want a V8 car. Prefer a 351C. I can probably be swayed to get
> >into a 302 car if it's got the other stuff I'm looking for.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Rick
> >
> >--- In classicmustang@yahoogroups.com, Dan O'Reilly <dano@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Well, first of all, there weren't many I6 cars made in 71-73, even though
> > > it was the base engine (for non-MACH and non-Boss cars).
> > >
> > > As for rust, the major places they seem to have problems are in the trunk
> > > area (trunk floor, taillight panel, rear quarters and trunk
> > drop-offs). Be
> > > very wary of rusted cowls, as they simply aren't made. I had to look for
> > > over 2 weeks to find a replacement cowl I could cut out of a donor car
> > when
> > > I did my '71 Mach. Being a convertible, make sure the floor pans and
> > > rockers are solid, as they provide the rigidity for the car.
> > >
> > > At 03:11 PM 4/30/2009, hipogt@ wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > >Rick one word - rust. You can fix mechanicals and interiors reasonably
> > but
> > > >if you have sour frame rails, quarters, fenders etc. the car will be a
> > > >money pit.
> > > >
> > > >That said - it's better to get a V-8 car because prices drop 15 - 20% if
> > > >it has a six. I have a '66 ragtop with a six and despite thinking it's a
> > > >great powerteam I don't probably won't get near what a 289 will.
> > > >
> > > >Just my .02
> > > >
> > > >Bill Krieger
> > >
> > > ---
> > >
> > > Dan O'Reilly
> > > 1971 Bright Red Mach 1
> > > 2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
> > > Colorado Springs, CO
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> ---
>
> Dan O'Reilly
> 1971 Bright Red Mach 1
> 2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
> Colorado Springs, CO
>

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/classicmustang/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/classicmustang/join
(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:classicmustang-digest@yahoogroups.com
mailto:classicmustang-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
classicmustang-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/