Re: [Classic Mustang] Two questions, carb, and paint removal

If memory serves, I tried a similar approach to mine. (Only I had added
a layer of lacquer paint to the two coats already present.) I gave up
on the sandpaper approach pretty early on, although 36 grit Alumina
Zirconium might have done the job. (They didn't have AZ paper in 1980.)
I tried sand blasting next... which was effective, still very time
consuming, and extremely messy.

I ended up using liquid paint stripper, followed by the jitterbug (w/ 80
grit sandpaper). Yes it was still messy, but it was a different kind
of messy... and it didn't leave sand on, in, and around everything. So
don't do this indoors - DAMHIKT! Occasionally sand still comes flying
out of my AC vent.

If I were doing it again... which isn't to say "I" would... I suggest
you mount the body on a rotisserie and strip it down completely. Send
the carcass and parts out to have then all dipped. Mount the carcass
back on the rotisserie and begin the task of putting it all back
together again.

If the original paint is holding up well, you can use it as a primer for
your top coat. In other words, there is no need to remove completely if
it is holding up well.

If yo don't want to deal with vatting the carcass, you can still
accomplish most of this by vatting the removable panels (hood, trunk
lit, fenders, doors, and valence panels) and concentrate your sanding
and stripping efforts on the rear quarter panels.

Something to think about... depending on time, money and space.

All the best -
-Michael

lrll5200 wrote:
> Well, I have an old Holley also... just liked the idea of the autolite. So, we can just see which one works!
>
> We are using a DA sander, so I am thinking that maybe it is the compressor behind it. I know the second paint job on the car comes off really easy, it is that original stuff that is stuck like glue.
>
> We will see what happens with something stronger... and I guess we should post some as is pictures.
>
> Thanks !!!!
>
> Leanne & Steve
>
>

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