Agree with the 4100. Why? Trying to maintain stock appearance? The Holley would be a much better and more enjoyable ride. A few things have changed in the last 40 years.... Nothing is impossible, but will all depend on your skills and patience.
As far as the paint. Step up the grit on the paper. BUT...... Be careful that you do not go too far into the metal. If so, you well spend a grunch of time getting the sand scratches out of the metal. If the original primer is still on the car, try to get to it and then stop. Or use the heavier grit to break the paint lose, then follow up with the 80 or 120 grit to get through the primer and to the metal if needed.
and remember, HAVE FUN!!! Otherwise it becomes a job...
Mahalo!!
Jim Ohrt
----- Original Message -----From: Leanne LauberSent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 9:13 PMSubject: [Classic Mustang] Two questions, carb, and paint removal
Might as well get started with the questions!!1. Just purchased an autolite 4100 4v to rebuild for a 347. I have my 68 shop manual, which of course covers the 4300 series. Is there a source for the 4100 without purchasing a whole shop manual, (the page with the rebuild kit from NPD leaves a little to be desired) or is it possible to reference the 4300 instructions and have them work?2. Today was day 1 of sanding... we discovered that original paint and base coat are tough stuff. Using a sander with 80 grit, and didn't make much progress. Is it just a slow process, or do we need more power (larger compressor) behind the sander?Thanks for any suggestions!Leanne & Steve68 mustang coupeIowa
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