Why are you gong to be using a old 4100 for the 347 build? Maybe I am just no familiar enough with them.
I personally think you would be much better off with a nice Holley. You (or the Dyno Tech) will have a much easier time getting it all set right when it comes time for the base settings on fire up.
I was running a Edelbrock on my 306 and could never get it to run just right ... and that was after two hours of Dyno tuning. Now dont think the dyno tech was just not good enough. Contrare ... Mustang Ranch in Santa Clara is a great shop. He even went on to warn me about the E'boks tendance to loose power on exit of high G corners. Well now that the driver has gotten better the lose of power coming out of turn 7 or 11 at Sears Point is just scary with someone on your tail! And now I am even getting the power loss on exit of a good cloverleaf on/off ramp!
Got a nice Holley 650 w/vacuum secondaries waiting to go on this spring!
Wanna buy a used 600 E'bok with full tuning set of rods and meters?
Joe
From: Leanne Lauber <bikefortwo@isunet.net>
To: classicmustang@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 6:13:17 PM
Subject: [Classic Mustang] Two questions, carb, and paint removal
Might as well get started with the questions!!
1. Just purchased an autolite 4100 4v to rebuild for a 347. I have my 68 shop manual, which of course covers the 4300 series. Is there a source for the 4100 without purchasing a whole shop manual, (the page with the rebuild kit from NPD leaves a little to be desired) or is it possible to reference the 4300 instructions and have them work?
2. Today was day 1 of sanding... we discovered that original paint and base coat are tough stuff. Using a sander with 80 grit, and didn't make much progress. Is it just a slow process, or do we need more power (larger compressor) behind the sander?
Thanks for any suggestions!
Leanne & Steve
68 mustang coupe
Iowa
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