RE: [Classic Mustang] leaf springs

Having gone the air shock method on a '71 Maverick quite a while ago, which was virtually the same uni-body design as the Mustang, he speaketh the truth!  They can break through the upper mounting point. 

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To: classicmustang@yahoogroups.com
From: mmyjak@virtualworkshop.com
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 13:06:02 -0500
Subject: Re: [Classic Mustang] leaf springs

Clearly, its an option - but I think these are meant for frame-on-body cars. I wouldn't consider air shocks an option for the pony for the simple reason that there is no structure in the floor pan area where the shock mounts to support the weight of the vehicle. 

It takes far less force to dampen spring vibration (i.e., shock absorber) than it does to support the weight of a 2.6K-lb car.  So mounting a shock there is fine... but the body weight can punch an air shock right through it.  A real pain in the pan, so to speak. 

-Michael
Randall Reeves wrote:

Another option is to install air shocks in the rear...you can put in more pressure if you have a load in back, and then adjust for normal driving conditions.  I've heard the HD springs can be really stiff and cause some rear end jumping/handling issues. I replaced my rear springs with 4-bands and they are working out great.  Pretty simple to do. Randall --- On Mon, 1/26/09, Corey <magna_rider750@yahoo.com> wrote: From: Corey <magna_rider750@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Classic Mustang] leaf springs To: classicmustang@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, January 26, 2009, 8:37 AM Thanks for all the info guys..this helps out a ton. --- In classicmustang@ yahoogroups. com, "Michael D. Myjak" <mmyjak@...> wrote: > > Metal fatigue is a natural phenomenon. So goes sagging rear end > syndrome. Shackles, like what your father used, are really only a > stop-gap measure. I eventually sheared off a spring bolt - it connects > the leaves together and also registers the axle with the spring. > (U-bolts can only do so much...) > > Anyway I ended up taking my mustang in to spring repair shop. (Check > the yellow pages.) They not only replaced both spring bolts, they also > re-curved the springs and brought my pony back to a normal ride height. > They also added a half leaf to give me a slightly stiffer ride. Price > was very reasonable - $120 in 1980 dollars. > > If memory serves, the fender height at the apex of the fender lip on my > '68 was 28.5". How they figured out how much to curved the springs is > beyond me. But it worked like a charm. Best of all, they are > completely equipped to deal with heavy weight stuff. (Dump trucks are > their bread and butter.) Best of all, I didn't have to deal with any > sticky (read: immovable) bolts! > > -Michael > > Corey wrote: > > Years and years ago when my dad owned my Mustang, the stock leaf > > springs started sagging (pulled a trailer) so he raised the rear up > > with extensions (I don't know what else to call them). Well I would > > love to replace the worn out springs with some new ones and do away > > with the tacky looking "extensions" . My question is: do I need to get > > heavy duty or standard duty leaf springs? I am wanting to keep the ride > > height as level as possible. I don't pull a trailer with the car like > > he did. My main concerns are that the standard spring will still sag > > and put me back at square 1 or that the heavy duty spring will put the > > rear of the car up in the air. Any advice is appreciated. > > > > http://www.cardomai n.com/ride/ 2872763 > > >

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