--- In classicmustang@yahoogroups.com, "Michael D. Myjak"
<mmyjak@...> wrote:
>
> Metal fatigue is a natural phenomenon. So goes sagging rear end
> syndrome. Shackles, like what your father used, are really only a
> stop-gap measure. I eventually sheared off a spring bolt - it
connects
> the leaves together and also registers the axle with the spring.
> (U-bolts can only do so much...)
>
> Anyway I ended up taking my mustang in to spring repair shop.
(Check
> the yellow pages.) They not only replaced both spring bolts, they
also
> re-curved the springs and brought my pony back to a normal ride
height.
> They also added a half leaf to give me a slightly stiffer ride.
Price
> was very reasonable - $120 in 1980 dollars.
>
> If memory serves, the fender height at the apex of the fender lip
on my
> '68 was 28.5". How they figured out how much to curved the springs
is
> beyond me. But it worked like a charm. Best of all, they are
> completely equipped to deal with heavy weight stuff. (Dump trucks
are
> their bread and butter.) Best of all, I didn't have to deal with
any
> sticky (read: immovable) bolts!
>
> -Michael
>
> Corey wrote:
> > Years and years ago when my dad owned my Mustang, the stock leaf
> > springs started sagging (pulled a trailer) so he raised the rear
up
> > with extensions (I don't know what else to call them). Well I
would
> > love to replace the worn out springs with some new ones and do
away
> > with the tacky looking "extensions". My question is: do I need to
get
> > heavy duty or standard duty leaf springs? I am wanting to keep
the ride
> > height as level as possible. I don't pull a trailer with the car
like
> > he did. My main concerns are that the standard spring will still
sag
> > and put me back at square 1 or that the heavy duty spring will
put the
> > rear of the car up in the air. Any advice is appreciated.
> >
> > http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2872763
> >
>
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