syndrome. Shackles, like what your father used, are really only a
stop-gap measure. I eventually sheared off a spring bolt - it connects
the leaves together and also registers the axle with the spring.
(U-bolts can only do so much...)
Anyway I ended up taking my mustang in to spring repair shop. (Check
the yellow pages.) They not only replaced both spring bolts, they also
re-curved the springs and brought my pony back to a normal ride height.
They also added a half leaf to give me a slightly stiffer ride. Price
was very reasonable - $120 in 1980 dollars.
If memory serves, the fender height at the apex of the fender lip on my
'68 was 28.5". How they figured out how much to curved the springs is
beyond me. But it worked like a charm. Best of all, they are
completely equipped to deal with heavy weight stuff. (Dump trucks are
their bread and butter.) Best of all, I didn't have to deal with any
sticky (read: immovable) bolts!
-Michael
Corey wrote:
> Years and years ago when my dad owned my Mustang, the stock leaf
> springs started sagging (pulled a trailer) so he raised the rear up
> with extensions (I don't know what else to call them). Well I would
> love to replace the worn out springs with some new ones and do away
> with the tacky looking "extensions". My question is: do I need to get
> heavy duty or standard duty leaf springs? I am wanting to keep the ride
> height as level as possible. I don't pull a trailer with the car like
> he did. My main concerns are that the standard spring will still sag
> and put me back at square 1 or that the heavy duty spring will put the
> rear of the car up in the air. Any advice is appreciated.
>
> http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2872763
>
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