I checked and cleaned as many harnesses as i could find. this did not
make the flickering any better. I next pulled the cover off the
regulator and started the car. i noticed that the top contact was
clicking on and off at the same rate the lights were flickering. i
held this contact down momentarily and voila, the engine rpm
stabilized and the flickering stopped. I pulled out my ohm/voltage
meter and started checking for grounding problems. I also pulled the
+ cable off the battery and the engine continued to run around 15
volts. I next started checking the alternator. I noticed there was a
loose wire on the alternator on the post labeled "STA" i assume this
stands for stator??? I tried tightening the wire but the entire post
spun. I checked for voltage on this post and there was none. I pulled
the alternator and took the case apart to find the plastic insulation
surrounding this post burnt to a crisp. I went back to the car and
tested the wire that was hooked up to the "STA" post. it is a ground
wire. SO to make a long story short, i think i may have found my
problem. I only have three wires hooked up to the back of the
alternator. is it possible the "STA" post is not supposed to have a
wire attached to it and the ground wire that was originally on it
should be attached to the "GND" post???
thanks for your help.
matt
--- In classicmustang@yahoogroups.com, Flick01@... wrote:
>
> I had the exact same problem with my 65. When I disconnected
the main
> harness at the firewall I found "green death" in all the
connectors. I cleaned
> it up and for a while the problem was gone. It returned after a
while but not
> to the same degree as before. I stripped back the insulation from
the 10
> gauge wire which goes from the positive post on the solenoid to
feed the inside of
> the car and found oxidation on the wire. I could have replaced the
wire by
> soldering in a new one but standard harnesses for the engine
compartment are
> relatively inexpensive ($167 for the two large harnesses and the
small one which
> connects the alternator to the main harness, from NPD) so I ordered
new ones.
> Even if I would have replaced the corroded main feed wire I still
would be
> dealing with stiff and brittle 44 year old wires and the chances
are other wires
> throughout the engine compartment have corrosion also. The
harnesses were
> recently ordered and the car is off the road for an engine rebuild
and detailing
> so I can't yet tell you if it solved the problem but it's a sure
bet corrosion
> should not be part of any electrical system. Start by disconnecting
the
> harness at the firewall and see what's there.
>
>
> **************
> A Good Credit Score is
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