Re: [Classic Mustang] New member

 The rear also has some small flat nuts that hold the drum onto the axle.  They almost look like small sheet metal rectangles.  Make sure you get those off first.  The front wheel lugs come off with the drum.  You might also check the parking brake to make sure it is not engaged.

On Wed, Oct 15, 2008 at  8:44 PM, Al wrote:

It's the left rear wheel and the right front. We dragged it onto a

flatbed with a winch, and neither one turned. The rear wasn't opened,

and the rear hub will move just a hair but not the drum, and I

couldn't pry it off. I like the adjuster idea, thanks!

--- In classicmustang@ yahoogroups. com, golfindad@.. . wrote:

>

>

>   A couple of items.  I have a 68 Coupe, and they are very similar.

> For a Rust inhibitor I think you can go two different ways.  I have

used

> the POR-15 product and like it.  That product encapsulates the

rust, so

> if you get scrapes on it, etc, I'm not sure how long it will hold

up.

> Also you can go to www.Eastwood. com.  They have a whole line of

products

> that I have heard good things about.  From what I can read, it is a

> several step process, but worth the time.  I would suggest going to

> their web site and reading what they have, and maybe even calling

to ask

> questions.  I believe the POR-15 web page might have an 800 number

as

> well.  Good luck with that, but take your time, it will be worth it

in

> the end.

> About the wheels that won't turn, are they on the front or rear?

The

> front is simply the drum with two bearings inside it that spins on

the

> spindle, and pretty easy to get off.  The rest of the brake

assembly

> (backing plate, shoes, etc. are attached to the spindle and do not

> rotate.  The rear has bearings inside the axle housing, pressed

onto the

> axle and if the rear end has been opened or sitting with no drive

train

> attached, that could be a bigger issue.  I am in the middle of

> rebuilding all 4 drum brakes on my 68, new suspension on the front

and

> rear along with a new frame rail on the front driver side.  My

choice

> was to stick with the drums and install a brake power booster (I

have a

> 6 banger, 3 speed, and plan on using it as a Sunday driver), .

That

> will be done over the winter, I hope.

>

> Paul C

>

>

> On Mon, Oct 13, 2008 at  4:21 PM, Al wrote:

>

> Hello all,

> I've joined this group because I just bought a 1967 coupe and would

> like to benefit from others' experience with Mustang restoration.

> Reading the posts, there seems to be a lot of it here! My Mustang's

> previous owner took it off the road 20 years ago with intent to

restore

> it. He removed most of the front end, the engine and trans, bought

lots

> of Ford NOS parts, and that's as far as it went. Real nice guy,

though.

> I plan to work on the rust first (there's a lot), then install an

> updated drivetrain (the originals are long gone).

> Here are my first questions: Can anyone recommend a rust inhibitor

> coating? Also, 2 wheels have rigor mortis, I suspect rusted, seized

> brakes (4 wheel drums). Anyone have a solution for breaking them

loose?

> Thanks very much.

>

__._,_.___

Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___