of Aussie 2V heads with the quench chamber but the 2V port layout - they're
supposed to REALLY kick *ss, and I found a pair of bare heads (no valve
train) for $100 if the guy still has them. I decided upon the 670cfm 4150
based on Holley's charts for cubes and RPM range. The 670 seemed to cover
a lot of ground for that, and the Cleveland does pretty well in the higher
RPM ranges.
The $64 question (OK, does THAT date me???): where's the best place to run
the choke wire to? I can hide it pretty easily in my '71, as the engine
bay is pretty stuffed. I have the ram air system, so that massive air
cleaner (much larger than than a standard one) covers a lot of sins, if you
know what I mean.
At 09:15 PM 10/3/2008, Michael D. Myjak wrote:
>I've got mixed thoughts on this one, Dan.
>
> From experience, I can tell you that I REALLY LIKE THE ELECTRIC CHOKE!
>It took all of the fun (?) and guessing games out of whether my car will
>start today or not. Now its just as regular as clockwork.
>
>When I first acquired my 1969 351W 4v engine, I found it in a field -
>with an aluminum intake manifold installed on it. (In part, its what
>endeared me to it.) It was one of those rare over-the-counter Ford
>intake manifolds made by Buddy-Bar. This one had just the Ford part
>number and the little ford Script 'football.'
>
>I was later told that these were hot items in the day for bracket
>racers, because they would paint them engine color and shave 50lbs off
>the GVW. It got pretty good mileage too - nearly 3-4mpg better than
>the Edlebrock Performer I replaced it with (after some unscrupulous sole
>decided they needed it more than I.)
>
>So I understand the mindset about keeping the look original. I wouldn't
>bother grinding off the Edlebrock name. Just paint it blue. I'd run
>the wire for the choke too, and I'd retain the old heater hose clip as
>well. You can rout the wire down and underneath the choke so its nearly
>invisible. Wrap it up in the wire loom for the rest of the cable. Use
>electrical tape and wrap them up together. Take your time, and the end
>result will be a nearly fool proof add-on.
>
>Some things you just can't hide. And most things you can hide
>sufficiently that 99% won't notice it. And you know what? Those that
>do... wouldn't be fooled in the first place anyway.
>
>You didn't say whether yours had the open or closed chambered heads...
>but the 4150 on a 351 2v closed chambered engine is kicking
>combination. The 670CFM might be a little on the high side, but the
>Cleveland breaths well, and can better make use of it than the Windsor
>can. (I'm running a 600cfm list-1850).
>
>My thoughts... post some pictures when you make the change. I'd love to
>see what it looks like.
>
>cheers -
>Michael
>
>Dan O'Reilly wrote:
> > I've been kicking around the idea of putting the Edelbrock 4V manifold on
> > my '71 Mach with 351C 2V. The carb I'm looking at is a 670cfm Holley 4150
> > Street Avenger. Here's the kicker: my air cleaner will pretty much hide
> > the fact that I would have an aftermarket carb, and I can take a
> grinder to
> > the Edelbrock logo on the manifold and hit it with Ford blue paint.
> >
> > However, the choices I have for a choke are manual or electric. Of the
> > two, electric sounds better, but I really don't want to have to run a wire
> > anyplace where it would be spotted. What I'm wondering is if the carb can
> > be retrofitted with a heated choke assembly from a Ford carb so I can
> > continue to run my heater hoses past it to do the heating.
> >
> > Can anybody comment on that?
> >
> > ---
> >
> > Dan O'Reilly
> > 1971 Bright Red Mach 1
> > 2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
> > Colorado Springs, CO
> >
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
---
Dan O'Reilly
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO
------------------------------------
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